“It’s all in the eyes. I was once told a smile isn’t genuine unless the eyes smile too. Words mean nothing unless the eyes speak them too.” Jetani Rajvi
With a plethora of eyelash brands and bewildering styles, choosing the right eyelash for your eye shape can be quite overwhelming and produce pangs of eyelash second guessing. However, with little or no skill in the eyelash world, even the most make-up timid can easily learn a few simple basics to simplify and even enjoy the false eyelash process….you may even find it impossible to choose only one.
The key is in selecting the perfect eyelash that will enhance your eye shape. Once you find which eyelash is right for your eye shape, you can make any statement you want, whether its natural and minimal or decidedly dramatic. The impact of the eyelash should never be underestimated.
With that said, these easy-to-follow and foolproof formulas are so valuable that it simply can’t be kept to oneself. As with everything beauty related, these tried and true lash secrets, faithfully used by top celebrity makeup artists, are not hard rules set in stone…because, after all, choosing the “perfect” lash is always going to be subjective.
The Best Eyelashes
The best eyelashes enhance rather than detract from your overall look. So, experiment with different styles and brands to find what makes you feel comfortable, confident, and beautiful.
A Brief History of Faux Eyelashes
The earliest documentation of eyelash use is dated back to 4,000 BC in Egypt. However, the Egyptians didn’t use eyelashes just for beauty reasons only. Eyelashes were used to ward off evil spirits and treat many eye diseases.
Once Upon A Time In Hollywood…
The first false eyelash used on film was designed by American film director D.W. Griffith for actress Seena Owen in his film, Intolerance. His first designed eyelashes were created from simple fringe attached to a string then glued on with spirit gum. Nevertheless, even though his eyelashes lasted merly a few brief hours (and was anything but natural looking) it worked on black and white film and made Seena Owen look breathtaking… despite the allergic reaction it gave her the following day with swollen eyes.
The 1930’s
In the 1930’s eyelashes greatly improved and started to become vogue even though false eyelashes still looked far from natural.
The 1960’s
By the 1960’s cosmetic manufactures designed 20 styles of false eyelashes with Twiggy personifying eyelashes by wearing thick lashes on her upper and lower lids….big overdone and exaggerated eyes was the coveted stye. During this time, 20 million pairs of eyelashes a year were being sold…and the Twiggy-esque eyelash craze began.
“Twiggy, 1967”by thefoxling is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
Twiggy Rocking Her Eyelashes
Today and Beyond…
Today, the drag queen-esque lash has been updated to a variety of natural looking lashes for every eye shape. This is not to say I don’t like drag queen-esque style lashes, just not on me. According to the Nielsen study, 270 million was spent on false eyelashes last year alone. So, I think it’s safe to say that false eyelashes have transitioned from an occasional dress-up accessory to an everyday necessity.
The Crowning Touch: Materials Used in Eyelashes
- Mink Lashes
Mink lashes are made from fine short hairs taken from the mink. Because these lashes are very thin and lightweight, they do not weigh your natural lashes down and last longer. These lashes look natural and easily hold a curl. The downside is, mink has a higher percentage of allergic reactions compared to other common synthetic materials used.
- Faux Mink Lashes
Faux mink lashes gives the same look as real mink without the high cost. These lashes are made with PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate), a synthetic fiber. PBT comes in different qualities, with faux mink using a higher quality of PBT. In all honesty, faux mink is just as good as real mink and it’s difficult to tell them apart.
- Synthetic Lashes
Synthetic lashes are the most commonly used eyelash. Synthetic lashes are made with PBT, polymers, and polyester which is heated and molded into the lash shape. Synthetics are slightly heavier than mink and faux mink lashes and do not last as long. The upside is, these lashes cost less, are available in a variety of styles, and are perfect for the beginner learning to apply lashes.
- Mink and Synthetic Lash Mix
A combination of mink and synthetic. It can be real mink or faux mink.
- Silk Lashes
Silk lashes are tapered shorter, the body of the lash is thicker and it has a semi- gloss finish.
- Cashmere Mix Lashes
Cashmere like hair mixed with other synthetic fibers. Cashmere mixed lashes are usually long in length, soft and flexible and has a more even, natural finish. These lashes are usually in the mid-price range.
Mink, Mink/Synthetic Mix, Silk, and Cashmere Mix lashes can be worn multiple times (if taken care of). The Synthetic lashes usually last for one wear but I have known people that can get two or more wears with synthetic lashes.
The Language of Eyelashes: Types of Eyelashes
- The Strip Lash
The strip lash is the most popular lash with a wide variety of styles, materials, and price ranges. Strip lashes have a black or clear band with the lashes attached. These are the easiest to apply than the individual lashes.
- Individual Lashes
These lashes are commonly used by makeup artists. They come in different lengths and shapes. The individual lashes are perfect for filling in sparse areas or layered to give a fuller eyelash look. These lashes are more time consuming to apply.
The Styles and Patterns
All lashes range in length, volume, and curl.
- Length
Eyelashes come in various lengths: short, medium, and long.
- Volume
Most lashes come in either natural (fewer lashes), medium volume, or dramatic (more lashes).
- Curl
Eyelashes come curled or slightly curled.
- Natural
Natural lashes come in crisscross, semi-straight, or spiked patterns with a wispy curl. Natural lashes give a subtle feathery “natural” effect. These lashes are usually shorter on the inner eye corner and longer on outer eye corner. These are the everyday go-to lashes.
- Dramatic
This eyelash is medium in volume, longer, and heavier than the natural eyelash. This is the evening wear eyelash. This eyelash looks great in pictures.
The Foolproof Formula:
First Determine Your Eye Shape
- The Six Shapes Of Eyes
Almond eyes
Round eyes
Downturned eyes
Upturned eyes
Hooded eyes
Monolids
…beauty comes in a variety shapes
- The Four Extra Eye Features
There are 4 extra features that the shape of your eye can possiably have:
Wide set eyes
Close set eyes
Deep set eyes
Prominent eyes
A person can have up to three features, but usually only have one or two. For example, I have almond shape eyes that are wide and deep set.
The Two Questions You Must Ask When Determining Your Eye Shape
- Do you have a crease? If you answered no to this question, you do not need to answer the next question. If you don’t have a crease on your lid then you have a monolid shape.
- Can you see the crease? If you have a crease but cannot see it because of a skin flap resting on the top eyelid, you have hooded eyes. If you can see the crease of the eye then you either have round eyes, almond eyes, upturned eyes, or downturned eyes.
Determine how Your Eyes are Set
- Do you have close set eyes or wide set eyes?In close-set eyes, the eyes are closer than one eye with apart and the inner corners of your eyes sit close to your nose.The Width Test To Determine If You Have Wide Set Or Close Set Eyes
You can measure the length of one eye then the length between both eyes. If the eye length is less than the length between both eyes, than you have wide set eyes. If the Deep set eyes are set deeper into the eye socket, making the eyebrows appear more prominent. length of the eye is more than the length between both eyes than you have close set eyes.
Wide Set Eyes
Wide set eyes are wider than one eye width apart.
Close Set Eyes
Best Lashes For Certain Eye Features
- Close Set Eyes
Best Eyelash:
Eyelashes longer on the end will lengthen and lift the eye to make the eyes appear wider apart.
- Deep Set Eyes
Deep set eyes are set deeper into the eye socket, making the eyebrows appear more prominent.
Best Eyelash:
Deep set eyes can go with any type of lash from subtle to dramatic. Because the eyes are set deep, longer length eyelashes, especially longer in the center, with a medium volume and curl will enhance and flatter the eyes beautifully without overpowering.
- Protruding Eyes
These charming eyes recede deeply in the eye socket with the eyelids and eyes slightly projected.
Best Eyelash:
A dramatic lash with short to medium lash lengths with flatter and enhance this eye.
Huda Beauty: Samantha #7
Sephora Collection: Quill Natural Style
Best Lashes For Certain Eye Shapes
- Almond Eyes
These eyes have a wider center and the irises disappear into your upper and lower eyelids with a slight point at the outer end of the eye.
Best Eyelash:
Almond shaped eyes will look great in just about any lash length and lash style.
House of Lashes: Iconic
- Round Eyes
In round eyes, the iris is visible.
Best Eyelash:
Eyelashes with length at the corners and curl enhances the round eye best. Avoid heavy eyelashes with a lot of volume because it can weigh the round eye down.
Sephora Collection: Flair Natural Style
Velour Silk Lashes: The Perfect Fan
- Hooded Eyes
In hooded eyes, the crease on the eyelid is not visible when the eye is open and the browbone is prominent.
Best Eyelash:
Eyelashes that are longer and fuller in the center will create depth and open the eyes at the center.
Ardell Lashes: Cluster Wispies
House of Lashes: Boudoir Lite
- Monolid Eyes
Most common eye shape in Asians. In monolids, the eyes protrude with no crease. In monolides the eyelashes tend to be straight and short, so the focus is on length, curl, and shape.
Best Eyelash:
Eyelashes with length in the middle with ends in natural or medium volume flatter these beautiful eyes.
Ardell Lashes: Demi Black 120
Velour Lashes: I Got It From My Momma
Tip: For both hooded and monolid eye shapes, the lids are not visible when the eyes are open.
- Upturned Eyes
The upturned eye has the perfect cat eye. In the upturned eye, the outer corners point higher than the inner corners of the eye.
Best Eyelash:
Flared eyelashes that add length to the outer corners of the eye beautifully enhance this feline shaped eye.
- Downturned eyes
In downturned eyes, the outer corners of the eye turn slightly downwards.
Best Eyelash:
Eyelashes with length at the outer corners will uplift the eye by creating length along the lash line.
Huda Beauty: Sasha #11
…And For Those With Eyeglasses
Just because you wear eyeglasses doesn’t mean you cannot dress up your eyes. First, decide which eye shape category you fall into then choose short or individual eyelashes because lenses have a tendency to magnify the eye. The key is making sure the eyelash doesn’t hit your glasses.
Tip: If the eyelashes are hitting your lenses, try curling the lashes to move them away from your glasses.
How To Apply Eyelashes: A Foolproof Formula For The Eyelash Worthy
Measure
First, measure the length against your eye. If the eyelashes are too long for your eyes (most are), use nail clippers instead of scissors to trim a small strip because scissors dull over time (unless you are sure your scissors are sharp).
Trim
Always trim from the outer part of the eye lash band because the inner part of the eye lash already has the shorter hairs.
Most of all, be cautious as it is always best to be conservative and not to trim off too much. I usually need to trim mine 2-3 times before getting the right length.
Prep The Eyelashes
Celebrity makeup artist Billy Manik, recommends curling the Eyelash band before applying.
How To Curve The Eyelash Band
After carefully removing your lashes from the package, shape the band of the lash strip by wrapping it around a medium eyeshadow brush. Keep the original glue used to hold it in the packaging on as it will help it to wrap it around the brush. This trick, according to Celebrity makeup artist, Ricky Wilson, “Helps to reshape the lash so it will hug the curve of your eyelids, making it easier to apply.”
Use Quality Eyelash Adhesive
Toss the glue that comes with your eyelashes. Here are some glue brands that, over time, have proven to work well.
Eye adhesives come in either a clear or black color. However, if you are new to applying false eyelashes it is easier to use the clear color. These brands come in latex and formaldehyde free formulations and can be used on sensitive eyes.
As always, if using for the first time, do a 24-hour allergy test on a different area of your body to check for any skin reactions before using the product on your eyes.
Quality Eye Adhesives
House of Lashes: HOL Dark Lash Adhesive
Revlon’s Precision Lash Adhesive.
Kiss Lash Couture Lash Adhesive
Ardell Lashtite Adhesive
Duo Eyelash Adhesive
Lash XO
Applying Eye Adhesive
When applying eye adhesive from a tube, use a small painters brush or cotton tip to apply. Do not hold the tube of glue upside down when applying to the eyelash (you run the risk of having too much spill out).
Wait 30-50 seconds before applying the eyelash strip to make sure it is tacky as it will adhere better.
Do not overuse eyelash glue, overusing will produce a clumpy, unnatural look.
Use An Eyelash Gripper Or Tweezers To Apply
Eyelashes are easier to handle with eyelash grippers or tweezers. However, some can do their magic using their fingers, so try methods to find which method is easier for you to use.
Tip: When applying eyelashs, celebrity makeup artist Simkin recommends to look down and not straight ahead into the mirror when applying lashes and don’t go too close to the inner corner of the eye.
Practice
It does take a few practice trials to perfect this skill but the end results are so worth it.
To Remove
To remove eyelashes, use an oil based eye make-up remover on a cotton swab and gently massage at the base of the eyelash to loosen. They should remove easily. Do not pull too hard when removing.
The eyes are the windows to our soul and can speak volumes about who we are by animating our emotions… something that only eyelashes can capture and enhance. The right eyelash can easily take any eye and make it unmistakably gorgeous. For me, eyelashes are arguably the most transforming beauty product of all. And that’s immeasurable…and also a personal foible of myself. But, what’s not to like?
What is your go-to, must have eyelash style or brand?
Let me know and I may include it!
XOXO JC
images,“Twiggy, 1967” by the Foxling, Allef Vinicius, Kal Visuals, Carlos Augusto